Jean Hummler and Nassim Dessicy run what just might be the top specialty beer cafe in the capital of the European Union, Brussels. Chez Moeder Lambic (“Mother’s Lambic House”) is located in the St. Gilles neighborhood, a short tram ride to the south of the city center. The cafe was one of Belgium’s great beer houses in the 1980’s. It was the brainchild of Joel Pecheur, now of Delirium Cafe.

Pecheur eventually left, in the 90’s, and Moeder Lambic later fell on hard times. In 2006, the owner of the cafe was bankrupt. Bartenders Jean and Nassim, who had learned to appreciate great beers while working at Moeder Lambic, had been considering opening their own bar. The pair saw an opportunity, and purchased the cafe that year. They were 29 and 32 years old at the time.

Since then, Moeder LambicJean Van Roy has become a destination spot for the local “Bruxellois” people, and beer lovers from across the globe. The typical clientele is young persons in their 20’s and 30’s, though you will see patrons of all ages supping up the atmosphere and the superb beers offered in this one room bar. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable, and are happy to talk about beer and makes recommendations.

There are 300+ different bottled beers on the menu, and several on draft. This usually includes some Belgian brews rarely seen “a fut” (on draft.) Hometown lambic brewery, Brasserie Cantillon, is especially well represented. Moeder Lambic is nearly a second home for these brews, and for brewer Jean Van Roy! There are also two handpumps from which to pour brews such as Cantillon Lambic. Cantillon’s Faro is usually on draft as well.

Dupont’s superb brews are also on offer, including the excellent and rare Cervesia, a beer brewed primarily with herbs and spices, which has very little hopping-nearly a modern day Gruit. I’m sad to say that CervesiaCantillon Beers is not imported to the U.S.!! Brews from many small Wallonian microbreweries, such as Brasserie Millevertus and Brasserie Jandrain-Jandrenouille, are also stocked. Jean and Nassim also have quite a few artisanal Belgian cheeses available, from small producers. The cheese is served with bread, so you can soak of some of those great beers you’ll be tasting!
  
Moeder Lambic has an atmospheric cellar area which can be booked for tastings for small groups....and where many fine Belgian brews wait to be opened and enjoyed!
  
Jean and Nassim have been so successful that they plan to open another Moeder Lambic cafe in the Autumn of 2009. “We hope to open by early October” Jean told me a few days ago. The new cafe will be in central Brussels, at Place Fontainas #8.
  
“There will be 40 taps, 5 hand pumped beers, around 50 bottles in the 75cl size, and 50 different lambic beers” Jean told me recently. “There Pouring a St. Lamvinuswill be only one small bottled beer: Orval, plus a few foreign brews, from places like Finland, Germany, England, Spain, the USA, and Canada. The goal of the new bar is to have the very best Belgian beers available, as well as a few foreign beers” He continued.

That sounds great! I can’t wait to get back to Brussels later this year!

Dupont Cervesia, available at Moeder Lambic.

This is Yvan de Baets of Brasserie de la Senne, with a glass of Crianza: a de la Senne/Cantillon blended beer.

This is brewmaster Jean Van Roy of Brasserie Cantillon, enjoying a glass of 2005 St. Lamvinus. This is a particularly well-loved

This is the first page of the menu at Moeder Lambic.

In the Cellar of Moeder Lambic

Cheers, Gezondheid and Sante!

Charles (“Chuck”) Cook

ccook@beerconnoisseur.com