For Foodies, the Emilia Romagna region of Italy comes with a substantial set of credentials.  Located in the Northern area of Italy’s boot, it spans an area that stretches from the Adriatic coast to a whisper’s breath of the Ligurian Sea.  The geography of this broad region encompasses a fertile alluvial plain, giving way to lagoons and salt-drenched marshes, rivers and thermal springs.  The mountainous Apennines stretch across the northern region toward the southeast, with hills blending these highlands to the lower landscape.  This varied countryside has enabled Emilia Romagna to become a world-class cornucopia for pasta, Prosciutto di Parma, gelato, Mortadella, aceto balsamico, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.  As a wine producer, an abundant array of Lambrusco, Pignoletto and Sangiovese styles integrate the region.  With so much local inspiration, it comes as no surprise that Birrificio del Ducato, established in 2007, is fast becoming one of the great breweries of Europe.

Brewers in Belgium, the British Isles, Germany, the United States, Czech Republic, and Japan are clearly associated with an identity that defines each of their respective brewing regions.  Likewise, Italian brewers are fast forging their mark to establish a distinctive character that sets them apart as masters in the brewing world.  Brewmaster Giovanni Campari has joined this Italian brewing community as a principal contributor, committed to establishing an Italian signature with his own maker’s mark.

Although Campari did not initially enter the food industry with aBrewmaster Giovani Campari focus on brewing, it was not long before zymurgy stoked its own fire.  As Giovanni became more aroused by the magic of yeast, he entered a brewing apprenticeship under the watchful eye of Brewmaster Agostino Arioli at Birrificio Italiano.  Here, he developed the aptitude necessary for solid recipe formulation.  He allowed himself to combine the influence of German traditionalism with American Left Coast liberalism, opening his brewer’s hand to greater latitude. 

At BRAU Beviale 2008, held in Nuremberg, Germany, Campari was awarded a Gold European Beer Star in the International Breweries Competition Beer Tasting Awards for his highly-acclaimed Verdi Imperial Stout, also known as VIS.  Birrificio del Ducato currently crafts a dozen beers, spanning styles from French Saison and Scotch Ale to German Pilsener and Russian Imperial Stout.  Campari uses creative combinations of malt, spices and hopping to achieve flavors that awaken the palate and last into the finish. 

Carolyn with Campari

Nuova Mattina (New Morning Ale) enters the limelight as a French Saison of 5.8% ABV.  Served in 11.2 ounce bottles with an earth-centric label, her hazy orange body meets the glass like the first blush of day, while an impressive bouquet of merged spice and flowers fill the air.  Malt strikes a full presence, and carries the distinctive earthiness of a well-crafted Saison.  Brewed with ginger, bitterroot, coriander, green pepper and chamomile, the character takes on that of a spice-monster (the counter-part of America’s hop-monster), imparting flavors both sweet and tart, dressed in layers of mint.

Verdi Imperial Stout (VIS) presents itself as an award-winning Russian Imperial Stout with a contemporary twist.  Influenced by the creative impulses of European chocolatiers, Campari has added hot peppers to ensure a firm, dry finish.   Throughout an aging process that spans 4 weeks, VIS is dry-hopped.  One might choose to drink such a substantial beer from the finest Riedel Vinum Cognac Glass, allowing full appreciation of the inky body and khaki layers of tight foam.  From such a vessel, aromas of chocolate cream, licorice, and nuts are delivered with direct attention to the nose.  Sweet, dark malts come into immediate contact with the front and center of the tongue, allowing full appreciation of the bittersweet chocolate, nuttiness, anise, and peppery tingle.  Despite the heat, the mouthfeel remains velvety and soft.

AFO, Ale for Obsessed, gleams a chestnut-bronze, glowing red along the edges, and sporting a creamy head.  Having been influenced by American IPA’s and Pale Ales, Campari designed his Pale Ale using nine different hop varieties from around the world, including American Chinook, Willamette, and Cascade.  A firm malt backbone displays the bready caramel character from within, supporting flavors of peach, grapefruit, and pine resin - American influenced, but clearly, with an Italian veneer.

Via Æmilia seems an appropriate title for an Italian-brewed German Pilsener.   Historically, the Via Æmilia held great importance as an artery connecting Rome with Northern Europe.  Having trained under Agostino Arioli, Giovanni Campari formed strong roots to the structure of German lagers before he launched into creating his own Italian-influenced brewing style. Via Æmilia charges the crystal with bright, golden clarity and white creaminess with lasting endowment.  Blessed with the distinctive herbal grassiness of Hallertau Mittelfruh, this German Pils possesses a crisp, clean palate with firm bitterness.

The Birrificio del Ducato portfolio of beers also includes Krampus, Chimera, and Winterlude Belgian Style ales; Sally Brown Dry Stout; and the notable Bia selection of beers.  Information on availability can be accessed through B. United International, Inc. (importers).

Birrificio del Ducato Portfolio

Cheers!

Carolyn

csmagalski@beerconnoisseur.com

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