Here’s the thing when it comes to craft beer in Michigan: no one messes around. The same brewery that can create a perfect session brown ale can also expertly prepare a chocolate stout with just the correct hint of vanilla in the finish.

And when it comes to festivals showcasing Michigan beer, they don’t mess around either. Take, for example, the annual winter beer festival held last weekend just north of Grand Rapids.

The whole thing was outside in near freezing temperatures with a good layer of snow, ice and slush on the ground. Everyone it seemed was prepared with insulated hunting gear, down coats, thick gloves and more than one cap made from the skin of an animal. Everyone, too, was having a good time. How could they not?

With more than 50 breweries from around the Great Lakes State represented, there was a taste for everyone.

I started with the 440 Pepper Smoker from Original Gravity Brewing, where the owner and brewer, Brad Sancho, said he was inspired by barbecue in making the beer. I can see why, with a nice – not overwhelming– smoke flavor and a nice kick from jalapeños, it made me long for a backyard cookout and warmer weather.

Temperature at the time: 33 degrees.

Sancho was not alone in being inspired by food with his beers. Over at Shorts Brewing Company they were serving one of the most talked about beers of the festival: Key Lime Pie.

A little sweet and a little tart, it is not so much a session beer as it is a nice night cap. It was complimented by other Shorts offerings: Caramel Apple, Black Cherry porter, plum rye, and pistachio cream ale.

Surveying the Michigan beer scene, it is easy to see where a lot of current brewing trends started and where they are going.

Paul Boissevain, the owner of Keweenaw Brewing, started canning his beers in 2004 and remembered how early on, people would turn their noses up and walk by his festival booth.

“People were so used to taps, but we kept doing it in cans so we could educate people,” he said.  These days, the people are lined up deep in order to get a taste. Other brewers have gotten into the act as well, citing better taste, easier shipping and a better impact on the environment.

On the cusp of a trend is Tommy Fuller, the owner of Old Hat Brewery and Grill in Lawton, who was showcasing his “Bees Knees,” a gluten-free beer. He created the brew after several regular customers were diagnosed with Celiac disease, an autoimmune disease that affects the small intestine, causing people to avoid gluten and other proteins found in wheat, barley and rye.

“First I had to learn about the disease and come up with a recipe,” said Fuller, who now brews with honey. “It’s become so popular that I get calls and emails from around the country. People want us to bottle it and get it out there. Hopefully, we’ll do that one day.”

Current temperature: 34 degrees.

If anyone was going to complain about the cold, however, one man had the right over everyone else. Derek Foltz of Ice Sculptures Limited in Grand Rapids spent about three hours carving a 350-pound block of ice into the festival logo.

“I’m just glad it’s not like yesterday,” said Foltz, referring to a snowstorm that blew through the previous night.

On the other end of the temperature extreme was Ken Ring, who was tending to one of four bonfires that dotted the festival grounds.

“I’m warm, I have beer, it’s a good mood,” he said. “What else does a person need?”

As the crowd of nearly 4,000 grew throughout the afternoon many festivalgoers flocked to larger or better-known Michigan breweries like Bell’s, Founders, New Holland and Jolly Pumpkin.

But there were gems to be found among the smaller breweries, including Wolverine Brewing, which just had one beer on tap, a lager. It was robust, flavorful and with a short line, easy to get to throughout the day.

One thing that stood out with this festival – aside from the cold – was that only Michigan breweries were present. No representation from national players like Samuel Adams or Sierra Nevada, which are common staples at beer events.

In a country with many many beer festivals, the Michigan Winter Beer Festival stood out for its unique and diverse offerings and the overwhelming sense of pride that is shared by brewers and drinkers alike. Plus, experiencing a beer festival in bone-chilling cold is something every Beer Connoisseur should do at least once.

“This is nothing,” said Victor Lambert, who works for the Michigan Brewers Guild. “First year we did this, in Lansing, the sleet was a half inch thick on my hat. Now, that was freezing.”

-- by John Holl

John Holl writes about craft beer and the culture of drinking. His work has appeared in The New York Times, The Star-Ledger of Newark, The Indianapolis Star and other publications. He may be reached at johnholl@gmail.com or facebook.com/john.holl.